I've never surfed before, tried a couple of times, maybe will try again. I do find the thought of using a fiberglass board as an instrument to capture the rush of nature. Something about focusing on balance with the distraction of ocean spray, other surfers, the speed and height of the wave intrigues me. We know that there is a goal and an end, but we're sometimes unsure of the journey. We know there will be a rush and a crash and that solid ground is on the horizon (or under our feet).
Life was stagnant for a long time. Looking back I was that hamster on the wheel; always running, but never getting anyplace. Suddenly the wheel is gone and so are the glass walls. Exploring the new environment is both exciting and scary; more exciting though.
The other day I went into Manhattan. I arrived at 42 Street and had to be at 79th Street in 45 minutes. I decided to walk. Walking meditation. Noticing that we, as humans, are walking oxymorons--All the same, but as different as snowflakes; obvious. Other surfers.